This formula is a water-based brightening gel-serum designed to help students understand active stacking, phase order, pH control, and clean processing for TXA, niacinamide, and alpha-arbutin.
Best for: Intermediate formulators
System: Water-based gel-serum
Main focus: Brightening active stack, pH lock, hydration support, and stability control
<| Phase | Ingredient | % | 100g | Function | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Aqua Aqua | 20.00 | 20.00 g | Solvent | Main water phase for gel base |
| A | Sepimax Zen Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 | 0.50 | 0.50 g | Gel former / Stabilizer | Sprinkle over water and allow to wet out before mixing |
| B | Propanediol 1,3 Propanediol | 3.00 | 3.00 g | Humectant / Dispersing medium | Use to pre-disperse hyaluronic acid and beta-glucan |
| B | Sodium Hyaluronate (LMW) Sodium Hyaluronate | 0.20 | 0.20 g | Hydration support | Disperse in propanediol before adding to the main phase |
| B | Sodium Hyaluronate (HMW) Sodium Hyaluronate | 0.10 | 0.10 g | Film-forming hydration | Supports slip and skin feel |
| B | Yeast Beta-Glucan Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract | 0.30 | 0.30 g | Barrier support / Soothing | Disperse with the hyaluronic acid phase |
| C | Ethoxydiglycol Ethoxydiglycol | 5.00 | 5.00 g | Solvent / Active support | Use to pre-dissolve alpha-arbutin |
| C | Alpha-Arbutin Alpha-Arbutin | 1.50 | 1.50 g | Brightening active | Pre-dissolve in ethoxydiglycol before combining |
| C | Aqua Aqua | 58.40 | 58.40 g | Solvent / q.s. phase | Calculated quantity to bring total batch to 100g |
| C | Niacinamide Niacinamide | 4.00 | 4.00 g | Brightening active / Barrier support | Dissolve fully before moving to the next active |
| C | Tranexamic Acid Tranexamic Acid | 3.00 | 3.00 g | Brightening active | Dissolve fully before final pH adjustment |
| C | Trehalose Trehalose | 2.00 | 2.00 g | Humectant / Skin feel support | Add into the aqueous active phase |
| C | Betaine Betaine | 1.00 | 1.00 g | Humectant / Osmolyte | Supports a less tacky hydration feel |
| C | Disodium EDTA Disodium EDTA | 0.10 | 0.10 g | Chelator | Add before preservation to support formula stability |
| C | Sodium Metabisulfite Sodium Metabisulfite | 0.10 | 0.10 g | Antioxidant support | Helps slow oxidation in the brightening system |
| C | Liquid Germall Plus Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate | 0.50 | 0.50 g | Preservative | Add gently into the aqueous active phase |
| D | Citric Acid (buffer pair) Citric Acid | 0.10 | 0.10 g | pH adjuster / Buffer component | Use as part of the pH lock |
| D | Sodium Citrate (buffer pair) Sodium Citrate | 0.20 | 0.20 g | Buffer component | Helps hold the target pH range |
Procedure
- Weigh the Aqua for Phase A into your main beaker.
- Sprinkle Sepimax Zen slowly over the surface of the water. Do not dump it in one spot.
- Leave it to wet out for 60 to 90 seconds before stirring.
- Mix on low to medium speed until you get a smooth gel base.
- Add propanediol and mix until uniform.
- Add the active phase one ingredient at a time and mix until fully dissolved.
- Check and adjust the pH to the target range.
- Add preservative and mix gently.
- Allow the batch to rest, then fill into clean amber airless packaging.